Page 7 - CHINA WORLD No34 十月刊-0925
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CHINA WORLD OCTOBER 2018 / 2018 年 10 月刊 07
BONPOINT :光芒四射的孩子
在二十世纪艺术史上,尚·米榭·巴斯奇亚就如同一颗划过夜空的璀璨流星,刹
那而永恒。他被誉为“光芒四射的孩子”:从街头涂鸦少年到安迪·沃荷的得
意门生,再到《纽约时报》杂志的封面之星, 巴斯奇亚一共只用了不到 8 年。
Bonpoint 2018 秋冬系列中,艺术总监 Christine Innamorato 就特别推出一个以巴
斯奇亚命名的艺术家同名系列。
质朴的牛仔裤和军绿色外套打造出巴斯奇亚式的男孩造型,苏格兰格纹和短裙则
让人想到巴斯奇亚 1984 年在爱丁堡水果市场画廊所作的公开展览,自由迷人的街
头涂鸦出现在 T 恤、围巾和运动鞋上,无拘无束的纽约街头风格自然也少不了飞
行员夹克、印字棒球帽……通过这个创意无限、灵光闪烁的系列,Bonpoint 向这
位 “光芒四射的孩子”致敬。
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ETRO:解锁秋季时尚
ETRO 2018 女装思绪无垠、大展拳脚。在本季新品中,Veronica Etro 的灵感来
自装饰派艺术挂毯繁复立面的大胆图案和意大利后现代建筑风格的花哨撞色。每
件衣服上的图案都经过精确计算、用 3D 建模进行手绘,使每一种几何皱褶、图
形边饰和波状印花围巾的位置都分毫不差。
男装方面,本季将挂毯和地毯的制作方法运用至服装上 , 创造了表现力极其丰富
的纺织品。提花更是得到了大量的运用 :
迂曲卷绕的枝蔓装饰着西装外套和大衣。
轻而厚实的天鹅绒颜色鲜艳 , 印花精美;
灯芯绒同样打造出了一系列既奢华又厚
实的裤子。格子衬衫采用环保的桉树纤
维制成 , 触感柔软如纯棉。帆布则应用在
手工制作并有意拙朴化的外套上。
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ETRO AUTUMN 2018
COLLECTION
For Autumn 2018, Etro takes a journey to the land of the endless horizon. For this BONPOINT TIPS CAP TO RADIATN CHILD
collection, Veronica Etro found inspiration in the intricate art deco tapestries, the enameled Bonpoint is saluting the Radiant Child with its latest fall and winter collection. An
jewelry boxes and the color blocking of Italian postmodern architecture. American artist of Haitian and Puerto Rican descent, Jean-Michel Basquiat was a neo-
This collection relies largely on print for visual complexity. The patterns on each garment expressionist painter of the 1980s, best known for his primitive style and collaboration
were mapped with mathematical precision and 3D modeled by hand to achieve the exact with Andy Warhol.
placement of every geometric ruffle, graphic border and billowing printed scarf. Basquiat, the Radiant Child, died on August 12, 1988. He was 27. On May 18, 2017, at a
For menswear, Materials are characteristically decadent with an intense focus on Sotheby's auction a 1982 painting by Basquiat depicting a skull set a new record high for
the translation of tapestry and carpet-making methods to the garment, resulting in any American artist at auction, selling for $110.5 million.
superlatively rich textiles. Jacquard is used heavily: on graphic wool blazers and long Inspired by Basquiat's iconic genius, Bonpoint’s art director Christine Innamorato launched
coats adorned with winding foliage. Velvet - lightweight but substantial - is brightly this year's Basquiat fall and winter collection.
colored and printed. Corduroy, too, creates luxuriously thick trousers in a range of bright Jeans and tarmac jackets point to Basquiat stylings. The tartan and kilts remind us of
hues. Gingham shirts are fabricated with sustainable eucalyptus fibers and feel as soft Basquiat’s exhibition at Fruitmarket Gallery, Edinburgh in 1984. T-shirts, scarfs and sneakers
to the touch as pure cotton. Canvas is used on workwear-inspired coats that have been feature graffiti, while bomber jackets and baseball caps showcase that old school New
handworn and degraded to according to the Japanese aesthetic principle of wabi-sabi. York street style.